Nutrition Essentials For Big Dogs
I’ll never forget realising that feeding Harley wasn’t just about portion sizes. When his skin flared up and he started experiencing painful and inflamed skin, I went down every rabbit hole of research I could find. That’s when it hit me – what goes in his bowl really matters. Watching your dog shrink away from a gentle touch because their skin is sore is just awful, and once I understood that it wasn’t only down to external triggers, everything changed.
When we first brought Harley home, I thought I’d done my homework. But within a few months – even before the skin issues began – we’d already started to realise that fuelling a big dog is an entirely different game. They don’t just need more food – they need the right food. Food that builds strength, supports joints, fuels energy, and keeps everything in balance – keeping them healthy, happy, and protected.
So, here’s what I’ve learnt – through study, a fair bit of trial and error, and many hours puzzling over how to help Harley feel his best.
Protein: The Power Behind Every Stride
I think of protein as my dog’s repair team. Every walk, every mad dash through the garden, every muscle stretch after a nap — it’s all powered by protein. For large dogs, good-quality protein is vital. With so much muscle and bone to support, they need proper nourishment to stay strong and comfortable. What matters most isn’t just how much protein their food contains, but where it comes from. Terms like “meat meal” or “animal derivatives” don’t really tell you much. You want clear, named ingredients — chicken, lamb, beef, salmon — listed right near the top.
Most adult large breeds do well on a diet with around 20–25% protein, while younger or very active dogs may need a little more. Too much, though, just adds unnecessary calories – and for our big Besties, every extra kilo can put added pressure on their joints.
My tip: Ignore the flashy claims on the front of the bag and go straight to the ingredients list. If you can’t see a named meat or fish source among the first few items, the food’s probably not as good as it looks.
Carbohydrates: Quality Over Quantity
There’s plenty of debate about whether dogs need carbohydrates at all. From what I’ve seen, the right kind is what can make a real difference – especially for dogs who enjoy long walks, training sessions, or simply have a bit more go in them.
Ingredients like sweet potato, oats, and brown rice are excellent slow-release sources of energy. They keep levels steady throughout the day without causing the ups and downs you get from quick sugars. They also bring useful fibre, vitamins, and minerals that support digestion and heart health.
What I avoid are the cheap fillers – the vague “cereals” or “grain by-products” you often see listed on packaging. They bulk out the food but add very little nutritional value, which isn’t what our Besties need when every calorie counts.
My tip: Look for foods that list recognisable whole grains or vegetables rather than generic fillers. And if you prefer to home-cook, add gentle, steady energy with ingredients like sweet potato or pumpkin — both are kind on the stomach and full of goodness.
Healthy Fats: Fuel for Joints, Brain and Heart
If there’s one thing that surprised me most when I started learning about canine nutrition, it’s how vital fats are — not just for energy, but for everything else. The right fats support brain function, heart health, skin condition, and — crucially for large breeds — joint mobility.
Fats are a concentrated energy source, providing more than twice the calories of protein or carbohydrate, so quality matters far more than quantity. For most adult dogs, around 10–15% fat in the diet is about right, though this varies with activity levels and metabolism.
What really makes the difference is type. Look for foods that contain omega-3 and omega-6 fatty acids, ideally from named fish or plant sources. These essential fats help control inflammation, support immune function, and keep the skin barrier healthy. Research by the National Research Council (NRC) and WSAVA Global Nutrition Committee shows that omega-3s – particularly EPA (eicosapentaenoic acid) and DHA (docosahexaenoic acid) – play a key role in joint health and cognitive function, especially in ageing dogs.
This all sounds very scientific and complex, but it’s so easy to incorporate into your Bestie’s diet – we started adding sardines in water (not oil or brine) to Harley’s meals once a week, and the difference in his coat and movement was noticeable. Sardines are rich in EPA and DHA, plus they’re a good natural source of vitamin D and B12. Other healthy sources include salmon oil, flaxseed oil, and herring, but always make sure oils are fresh and stored away from heat and light. Rancid fats can actually cause inflammation and digestive upset — the exact opposite of what we want.
My Tips:
- Choose foods that name their fat source (for example, “salmon oil” rather than “animal fat”).
- Include oily fish once or twice a week as a natural top-up.
- Avoid high-fat treats and table scraps — they’re easy calories that can quickly add unwanted weight.
- Store oils in the fridge and replace them every couple of months.
Large breeds rely on healthy fats to keep their bodies and minds in balance. The science supports it, but you’ll also see it — in the shine of the coat, the ease of movement, and that unmistakable spark of wellbeing when everything’s ticking along as it should.
Minerals: The Quiet Balancers
Minerals don’t get much attention, but they quietly keep everything running behind the scenes. For large breeds, they’re especially important – building strong bones, supporting the heart, aiding muscle and nerve function, and maintaining overall balance in the body. The tricky part is that too much can be just as harmful as too little.
One of the biggest considerations for large breeds is the calcium-to-phosphorus ratio, which ideally sits around 2:1. Calcium supports bone and muscle development, while phosphorus helps release energy from food. If this ratio is off — particularly if calcium is too high — it can actually interfere with normal bone growth. Studies published by the National Research Council (NRC) and European Pet Food Industry Federation (FEDIAF) show that excessive calcium intake in large-breed puppies can lead to skeletal problems and joint issues later in life. That’s why I always recommend using a large-breed-specific puppy formula for growing dogs. These are carefully balanced to promote steady, controlled growth rather than rapid gain — exactly what those big frames need.
These other minerals play equally vital roles:
- Iron supports red blood cell production and oxygen transport, keeping stamina levels up.
- Zinc maintains skin, coat, and immune health (some northern breeds, like Huskies and Malamutes, are known to absorb it less efficiently).
- Magnesium and potassium regulate nerve and muscle function, as well as the body’s hydration and heart rhythm.
My tip: Unless you’re preparing a fully home-cooked diet under the guidance of a canine nutritionist, there’s rarely a need to add mineral supplements. Quality commercial foods already provide the correct balance, and over-supplementing can easily tip things out of sync. With minerals, balance is everything – and large breeds depend on it.
Enzymes: The Unsung Heroes
Enzymes are one of those quiet little miracles that most people never think about — yet your dog depends on them for nearly every process in their body. In simple terms, an enzyme is a type of protein that acts as a catalyst — it triggers and speeds up chemical reactions that would otherwise take too long to happen on their own.
When it comes to digestion, enzymes are essential. They help break down food into nutrients the body can absorb and use — protease breaks down protein, lipase tackles fats, and amylase deals with carbohydrates. Without these, even the best diet can’t be fully utilised.
Dogs naturally produce their own digestive enzymes, but research from the National Research Council (NRC) and other veterinary nutrition studies suggests that dogs fed mainly on heavily processed kibble may miss out on the natural enzymes found in raw or lightly cooked foods. High heat used during processing destroys many of these active compounds, meaning your dog’s own system has to work that bit harder to do the job.
That’s one of the reasons I like to add a little fresh food to the bowl — lightly steamed vegetables, a few lettuce leaves, a spoonful of plain yoghurt or kefir for probiotics, or the occasional bit of fruit. It’s not about going raw or making drastic changes; it’s simply about helping their system along with a few enzyme-rich additions.
My tip: Add a spoonful of fresh, whole food to your dog’s meal each day. It doesn’t need to be complicated – a bit of grated carrot, chopped apple, or lightly steamed broccoli can make a quiet but meaningful difference to digestion and overall wellbeing.
The Overlooked Essential: Hydration
It’s easy to overlook, but hydration plays a huge role in your dog’s health – especially for large breeds. Bigger dogs have a higher body mass and lose more water through panting and exercise, particularly in warm weather. Even mild dehydration can affect energy levels, digestion, and joint flexibility.
As a rough guide, dogs need around 50–60ml of water per kilogram of body weight each day, according to research from the National Research Council (NRC). That means a dog like Harley may need around two litres of water daily – and more if he’s been active, travelling, or in hot weather. However, the easy route is what we do – we don’t measure it, we simply make sure he has access to fresh water all day and we keep an eye on how much we refill his bowl. It’s important to keep in tune with your dog’s water consumption and pay attention to his thirst levels if you make water freely available – drinking too much water can be a sign of underlying health issues. If you think your Bestie is drinking too much or too little always speak to your vet.
Rule of thumb is simple – just always make sure there’s fresh, cool water available, both indoors and out. On long walks or hikes, we carry a collapsible bowl and a bottle of water just for Harley – it saves a lot of stress. If your dog’s been exercising hard or has been ill, you can also consider a dog-safe electrolyte solution to help replace lost minerals like sodium and potassium. (Just avoid anything made for humans – the salt and sugar levels are far too high.)
My tip:
Keep an eye on hydration by checking your dog’s gums – they should be moist, not sticky – and gently lift the skin at the back of the neck. If it doesn’t spring back quickly, your dog may be dehydrated.
Hydration might not sound exciting, but for our big Besties, it’s one of the simplest ways to support joint health, energy, and recovery – and it’s completely within our control.
More Than A Meal
Feeding a large breed dog isn’t about chasing perfection – it’s about making thoughtful choices, guided by care and common sense. I like to think of it as fuelling a friendship and protecting them, not just filling a bowl.
Every large dog is different. What works for a Ridgeback might not suit a Weimaraner, and what’s right for a lively youngster may need adjusting as they grow older or slow down. The key is to stay observant – notice changes in weight, coat condition, energy levels, or digestion – and make small, steady tweaks along the way.
When you get it right, you’ll see it: the easy stride on a long walk, the bright eyes, the glossy coat, and that unmistakable sense of comfort and confidence that says your dog feels good in their own skin.
Feeding them well is one of the simplest, kindest things we can do. Our big companions give us everything – loyalty, laughter, and the occasional trail of drool – so it feels only right to give something back that truly supports their health and happiness. It’s really not a big ask.
Here’s to healthy, happy, well-fed big dogs – may their tails keep wagging, their joints stay strong, and their dinners always smell irresistible (to them at least!).
